Big Bend NP, and then some!

Camp Gordon Johnston at the Ochlockonee Boat Ramp

This trip began well before the departure date of March 13, 2018. It began about a couple weeks prior as an idea, a fantasy, an escape from my current problems! I love road trips and the country, especially the southwest. I had the idea to go no further west than Sabino Canyon in Arizona. But once I got to and explored Big Bend National Park I was satisfied to conclude my trip and so I turned back to the east, toward Florida. Tormented the entire time leading up to leaving and while on the trip by the idea of breaking down in my old but beloved Hyundai, Black Betty I weighed the pros & cons of renting a car. Knowing I’ll be traveling in remote areas and with the possibility of some mountain driving to tax the old engine that much more, I had much to consider. In the end I tool ol’ Black Betty and she was perfect the entire way!

When I set out I had no real solid destination. I was just going…! I had researched some free campsites ahead of time. But it’s quite difficult to know exactly when & where you’ll want to stop on road trips. Camping and sleeping in the car was my plan. I had the basic camping items for survival. (Did I mention this is my FIRST camping trip, ever?) And plenty, actually too much food! The day I planned to leave I ended up leaving later than I had intended. I wanted the help of a friend to put on the wind/rain guard things that go above the windows. Good for sleeping inside with windows cracked for ventilation. I didn’t trust myself, as usual, to be able to affix the window guards correctly, when in hind sight I’m sure I could have done a decent job.

About 10:40 pm the night I set out, I journaled to document my arrival at the Ochlockonee Lake Boat Ramp, also Camp Gordon Johnston, a free place to park overnight along highway 98. As I drove up a bunch of large flying bugs swarmed around, ensuring I would NOT get out of the car that night!

ol’ Black Betty at Ochlockonee Boat Ramp
Head on view of boat ramp at sunrise along bridge

Up with the sun, and thankful for the porta-potty, I drove west ending up at cute little Carabelle Beach. A sweet sounding name for a sweet beach! Solid concrete picnic areas in pastels reminiscent of south beach Miami. I whipped up some breakfast and cleaned up in the nice public bathroom. It was a chilly morning on the beach!

Picnic structure at Carabelle Beach
Peace, Man! making breakfast on the road!

I had been encouraged by an acquaintance to visit St Joseph Peninsula State Park/ Cape San Blass, and once again by another acquaintance there on Carabelle Beach! Having no time frame to stick to I decided right then that I would go to that out of the way park and check it out. It was quite out of the way. It was very remote and thus less populated. I hiked, saw the big sand dunes and also an eagle’s nest, could have been an osprey.

Big bird’s nest with bird’s wings outstretched
Dead tree framing beach at St Joseph Peninsula State Park

I ended up taking a wrong turn and found a pretty photo opportunity as a result! I don’t mind making u-turns and ‘wrong’ turns, I think I might do it on purpose some times! Ha!

A wrong turn brought me to this photo op

After spending a lot of time on my side jaunts, and in traffic unexpectedly, I wanted to get some miles behind me and didn’t stop that day until I was in Pascagoula, Mississippi. Too tired to put up a fight about it, I was upset that the ice machine was broken and their solution was to tell me to go buy ice! I count on ICE in hotels for my cooler! Little did I know, the real challenge was to come the next morning. Once I was ready to start loading up the car the next morning, I just opened the door to look outside. When I saw the two guys pass by I, without even thinking, reacted by gasping ‘Oh Shit’ and quickly closed my door. I felt fearful instantly & I well knew what 2 grown men could do to a small solo female. I paced & panicked a little. Until I finally decided I’m ready to go and I’m going! This fear will not stop me! Unfortunately I over pack and it took me about 4 trips down the stairs to the car, each time passing right in front of one of the guys who parked himself at the top of the stairs, overlooking the parking lot. He offered to help, I declined. He asked me my name, I told him it didn’t matter what my name is. The fear I felt didn’t make sense to me but was undeniable in my gut. I still feel guilty for feeling scared of that guy. The next day, after some processing, I thought I could have handled that differently, with love instead of fear. But what if I was right?

Onward, westward! Here at a Texas Information/ Visitor center I found this ‘lovely’ yard art.

LOVE art in Texas
Lunch time!

Lunchtime still in Texas, I swear they have the best rest stops ever! I love being self sufficient, packing meals and drinks so that I never have to go to a restaurant or purchase over priced drinks from any convenient stores. Not only does it save money, it also saves time. I’ve made (and ate) lunch while in a traffic jam! Speaking of the best rest stops, I fell in total & instant love with this one just east of Bracketville along highway 98. There isn’t even a bathroom but for some reason I love this spot.

Picnic Area east of Bracketville, TX hwy 98
It’s not often I see a cactus growing out of a tree

At some point in my day I decided I would try to get a hotel room in Sanderson, Texas for the night before heading to Big Bend National Park the next day. A hotel would refresh and recharge me for the next few days in the park where I would face the unknown!

Budget Inn in Sanderson, Texas

At check in I found a young-ish gentleman behind the desk face timing with his new bride who was still thousands of miles away from him. Very nice man, he complimented me on my perfume and wanted to get his new bride some. Eventually I got all checked in and a huge bonus, the desk clerk (I believe also the owner) passed on to me a Big Bend park pass (worth $25 at the time) that someone had passed on to him, except he had no plans to go. Things like this don’t usually happen to me! I was elated! Yippee!

I’m more about the setting than the set 😉

I am an introvert and prefer not to mix with people so much in public. Except this evening I decided to sit out side my door, while journaling and cooking dinner.

A couple that checked in right after I did, ended up a few doors down from me and started up a conversation. They had been to Big Bend that day, and the husband highly and repeatedly recommended Chinos Basin, only it was Chisos Basin and all I kept thinking about were Chino pants! They were very nice and gave me their brochures so that I could plan ahead for the next day. I was planning on taking his advice and going straight to Chisos basin, especially after reviewing the brochures. The couple headed out for dinner, to what I think was the only restaurant in town. They weren’t gone very long and reported that the restaurant was out of most things but they were able to eat something.

While the couple was gone another fellow traveler checked in and made some conversation with me. He was on his bicycle, no car, no stuff! He had met a ‘little girl’ on his bike trek and was expecting her, maybe, to meet him here at this hotel. He asked if I would keep an eye out for her, sure thing! Later on he figured maybe she really wanted to stay solo on her trip…

Much later on, after dark and while I was finally making my dinner, hot dogs, a couple with a young boy checked in to the room right next door to me. The mom was ordering every one around (grown man, husband) and not so nicely, either. She must have had a long day. They were having hot dogs, too. I went inside.

Sanderson, Texas
Park in Sanderson, Texas

Earlier I couldn’t resist a walking tour of the town before the sun went down. I took many pictures and was almost about to go into the local bar, until I thought, nah, just get some rest tonight.

Big Bend National Park Info in Sanderson, TX

Finally arriving in big Bend National Park, and getting “Welcome Back” at the gate due to my pass that expires in a couple days, it appears as if I have already been there. I took way too many pictures the entire time in the park. There are so many spectacular sights to see. Rocks, dead trees, mountains, cactus, heart shaped cactus, trails, birds, flowers and what not. The ranger also recommended I camp in Chisos Basin, but it fills up quickly so I should go straight there, and I did. And I found a campsite. Lucky number 13! LOL Next to a trail that led from the over flow parking to a hiking trail, some people got confused and trounced right through my camp site. But as green as I was (still am, mostly) I didn’t really realize it until it became annoying! One couple walked right next to me sitting in my camp chair, on my camp site, as if they were walking through the mall! This is my living room, right?

Campsite #13 Big Bend NP Chisos Mountain basin Campground
My campsite from the other side

I decided to take a hike! Window trail was supposed to be ‘easy’ but I found it to be taxing for sure, not easy at all.

Along Window Trail
Heart Shaped Cactus aplenty!
Along Window Trail
Close to the end of Window Trail
Even Closer to the end of Window trail
The End of Window Trail for me!
Heading back to camp from the window

Chisos Mountain basin at sunrise
Ah the red spikes and thorns on the cactus illuminated by the sun
Row boat to Mexico on the Rio Grande
My campsite at Rio Grande Village Campground
Contraband!!!!

Through out the park you may see little gatherings of trinkets for sale on the ground. Hand made crafty type items made by the Mexicans and brought over for sale on your honor as they leave a weighted down 2-liter or other type of jug to deposit money into. I bought a walking stick. After researching what it is made out of, it is Sotol, I learned that it is actually contraband and could have been confiscated at the gate when I left. It is likely because the government doesn’t get their little sales tax on the merchandise is why it’s illegal.

Purple cactus
Homer Wilson Ranch in the distance

Homer Wilson Ranch was another gem I discovered. I fell in love with this structure/home/dwelling and especially the placement of it along the creek bed, with that view of the mountain pinnacle. Loved it! From this picture you can see it in the distance, down the rocky path and across the creek bed. It was a fun hike.

It’s ME!
Homer’s porch
Homer’s indoors
Dry river bed & horse trail in Blue Creek Canyon
Love it all to myself!
Layers of Time

Back at camp just before sunset.

Along trail at sunset hike from Rio Grande Village Campground
Along Rio Grande Village Nature Trail
Ocotillo
Boquillas, Mexico
Me with Boquillas in background
Was hoping for a more vibrant sunset spectrum

Took a park brochure recommended hike for sunset, but the sunset wasn’t very vibrant, unfortunately. Or fortunately, if my timing was any different I likely would have missed the Mexican gray wolf. I am convinced I saw a Mexican gray wolf. I understand they are very rare to see. But I walk quietly and alone in the wilderness and it was just after sunset, in the marshy area close to the camp ground but not connected by land to the camp grounds. He looked like a wolf but smaller and more like a dog but lanky and almost white.

Roadrunner in my site/sight

It was several degrees hotter down by the Rio Grande as opposed to up in Chisos basin. My car sat in the hot sun all afternoon and was very hot inside. The temperature didn’t cool down much and I wasn’t prepared for mosquitoes! Between the heat and now the mosquitoes, I had to get OUT!! So I did, I broke camp, so to speak, and drove out of the park heading north on highway 385 towards Marathon, Texas, but I ended up in Fort Stockton, Texas for the night. By the time I even got out of the park it was dark. This is a country road in the middle of nowhere and a couple ranches! There were a ton of wild animals all along the road and some were in the road like the dumb bunnies! Skunk, javelina and a ton of deer! I couldn’t go very fast despite it being a country road in the middle of nowhere, and I kept having to hit my brakes. Already totally impressed by the performance of my old Hyundai, it rose to the occasion once again and performed perfectly with the excessive braking on a descent. This was one of the darkest roads I’ve ever been on, and I had to pee. That was spooky! Dark like ink.

On the road again
Sunset from hotel room in Weimar, TX

Back in Weimar, Texas and the same Motel 6! Stayed both ways this trip.

Sunset from hotel room in Weimar, TX
Bridge near Plaquemines Louisiana
Rearview Sunset
Traveling Buddy Bear in a Bag
Back to Florida

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